Lancette quadro tremolanti

[Frikinaus]

Credo di aver trovato il mio stesso esempio su un forum USA. Il fix è da artista dell'elettronica. Penso di piantare qui la bandiera e tornare indietro con la testa bassa.

Per chi vuole farsi una lettura.
https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/b4-cluster-elmos-10417a-replacement.268798/

In pratica il pezzo fallato è l'ELMOS 10417a. Difficile da trovare e altrettanto difficile da risaldare.

[xgiacomo]

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIm3wYD

Se sei convinto che il problema sia lui, puoi fartelo saldare da qualsiasi laboratorio di elettronica

[xgiacomo]

Meglio questo
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EI761Hn

[Frikinaus]

Ciao Xgiacomo si li avevo visti su aliexpress. Il rischio che il pezzo sia fallato è alto...
Ho visto un tizio su youtube che testava un intero lotto da aliexpress (esattamente quel pezzo) ed era completamente fallato.

Come si fa in questi casi per essere "Sicuri" che il pezzo di ricambio sia "buono"?
Più che la spesa per il pezzo, è il lavoro per risaldare tutto chè è un casino!

[xgiacomo]

Bah.. non so.. io compro sempre componenti su AliExpress, li uso.. sarò fortunato

Ci vuole 10 minuti per togliere il vecchio cip con aria calda e mettere il nuovo: al massimo ti prenderanno 20 euro

Però a naso, senza saper nulla, dubito che sia lui il responsabile del malfunzionamento

[Frikinaus]

Dici che è rapido risaldare l'elmos ? Perchè dalla guida postata dal tizio qui (https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/b4-cluster-elmos-10417a-replacement.268798) prima di operare sul driver dei motorini prima dissalda completamente la mascherina bianca.. ce n'è di lavoro da fare credo!

Questa è la guida completa, se può servire o per curiosità :

Here is the used cluster before the tear down began

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00127.jpg?t=1262745664

First step is to remove the 2 screws at the top of the cluster they are Torx #10's

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00128.jpg?t=1262745637

Next you need to remove the clear plastic lens by releasing the 4 white plastic tabs on the bottom of the cluster and pulling the lens off

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00129.jpg?t=1262745599

After removing the clear lens you need to remove the black plastic housing by releasing the 2 black plastic tabs one on each end of the cluster and pulling the housing up.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00130.jpg?t=1262745550

Once the black hosing is off it will look something like this

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00131.jpg?t=1262745513

Now its time to remove the needles, before taking them off note there locations so you can put them back on in the same place. The best way I have found to remove the needles is to rotate them backwards against there stops while gently pulling up. You also can remove at this point the plastic buttons for the clock adjusting in the lower left hand corner.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00132.jpg?t=1262745483

Next remove the metal face pieces from the cluster, now your down to the circuit board.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00133.jpg?t=1262745456

Its now time to remove the circuit board from the plastic cluster housing, first remove the 2 Torx #10 screws from the upper left hand corner of the board. Next you need to pull up on the board while releasing the 7 plastic ears one at a time.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00138.jpg?t=1262745392

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00139.jpg?t=1262745416

The circuit board is now out of the cluster and ready to disassemble
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00142.jpg?t=1262745354

Now you need to unsolder the LED's and LCD's from the circuit board, be very very careful to not break the glass on the LCD's

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00151.jpg?t=1262745326

Next you need to remove the white plastic bezel from the circuit board, its held on by 10 plastic ears similar to the ones that held the board into the housing.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00153.jpg?t=1262745297

Here is the bare circuit board after everything is removed

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00154.jpg?t=1262745268

Here is the second hardest part of the whole process, removing the 10417A without damaging it or the circuit board

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00156.jpg?t=1262745238

Now its time to switch boards and reinstall the 10417A onto the TDI cluster, this is by far the hardest part. Everything must be aligned properly and soldered on properly without any solder bridges or poor connections. After installing test and look very carefully to make sure everything is ok before continuing

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00167.jpg?t=1262745203

I use a very small tip soldering iron and .015 in dia. solder to stick the chip down, then with the hot air rework station I get the chip all the way down flush with the board and straight before finishing up with the iron and small diameter solder.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00168.jpg?t=1262745161

Time to reinstall the white plastic bezel and led's, the bent leg for the bottom row goes towards the fuel and temp gauges, the turn signal led's bent leg go up.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00169.jpg?t=1262745130

Now the LCD's, now the board is ready to go back in the housing.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00170.jpg?t=1262745108

Reverse the disassembly procedure taking care to properly align the needles and not forgetting to put the plastic buttons in for the clock setting switches and the trip odometer reset. Now you have a fully repaired and reassembled TDI cluster.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00171.jpg?t=1262745066

Here is the cluster stuck back in the car back up and running

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00173.jpg?t=1262744985

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00173.jpg?t=1262744900

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/dewhite2485/Cluster Repair/DSC00174.jpg?t=1262744847

[xgiacomo]

Non lo so, non ho approfondito! I link che hai messo non funzionano. Comunque se c'è da altre roba su cui intervenire per arrivare al cip, la cosa si complica

[Frikinaus]

Non lo so, non ho approfondito! I link che hai messo non funzionano. Comunque se c'è da altre roba su cui intervenire per arrivare al cip, la cosa si complica

In teoria lui dissalda la mascherina bianca che è sulla scheda.. Significa dissaldare 6 led tipo e togliere i due LCD (io ci ho provato e sono DELICATISSIMI!!). Ma nulla di eccesivo.

Si ho visto ora, i link sono "rotti" a causa di uno spazio. PAce